Friday, July 20, 2007
Bhagawan Bharose
Sitting among the chaos at Delhi airport just some hours back (and I mean chaos-that too post-midnight) I realized that some things never change here. Absolutely no sense of discipline (people pushing and shoving for luggage carts)-no sense of professionalism (a poor family was told by Air India they would have to wait a day to fly for no apparent reason)-no sense of punctuality (at 11:00 flights that left at 10:00 still displayed on the massive departures board)---and yet everything just sort of falling into place and working out. A common joke across India is that the nation runs 'bhagawan bharose' a la 'at the mercy of the Lord' and boy is that true---be it the traffic or the million shops on the streets or the local buses which look like they will fall apart any minute (personally I feel even if the buses were to fall apart the people inside would still be sitting in mid-air because they are all so tightly packed in).
My time in Baroda was great as I got a chance to relax and spend time w/family---but even amidst all that I could not help but notice how quickly and drastically it is changing. Malls are springing up around every corner...grocery stores are taking over the vegetable/fruit markets (thank you Reliance)...and people are trying to be as western as they can possibly afford---or in some cases people don't even seem to care whether they can afford it or not. And interestingly---even after being a fairly conservative smaller city (though it is well on it's way to becoming a metro city in a matter of years) one can spot more and more CSW's on the streets. These women work between cities to meet client needs---e.g. Baroda-Mumbai or Baroda-Delhi or Baroda-Ahmedabad. The rates that CSW's earned in Delhi sounded low---but not after I heard the rates here---around 5-10 Rs. to provide services to one client and around 45-50 Rs. to provide services to 4-5 clients at ONCE. Cutting it short---will add on more later...
Wednesday, July 4, 2007
Bombay Dreams
Balcony Watching and Bombay-Mumbai Dreams...
One thing I have loved at Renu aunty's Mahim apartment has been her balcony from our bedroom....I could stand there for hours (in fact I spend my first few moments every morning just standing at the balcony watching the morning jam below) and just watch the cars pass by and India be India. I won't lie---my favorite part of balcony watching is spotting Mercedes', BMW's and yes even Lexus' though they are not as common here. I have almost spotted as many Benzes here as I used to see on the SoCal freeways. To me that says a lot about the current day India---it is booming!!! Well at least it is booming for some and not so much so for others. Right across from the balcony we can see an old disheveled trashed house (close to a slum in my opinion) and it amazes me to just think about the clear-cut contrast...w/Benzes rolling down the street and a house like that in the background w/trash strewn all over the front yard one cannot but help wonder if India really is booming after all? Or is it simply that the disparities are more apparent now then ever before and therefore just as we're managing to see the struggle of the poor more now then ever before we are also seeing the massive financial boost that others are experiencing?
Bombay in my opinion is truly a city of dreams in every form---it has this feel to it---a feeling that sets it aside from all the other (the few) cities that I have visited across India. I can truly understand now why every year thousands flock here from other cities or towns or villages to make their dreams come true---be it a dream to become the next Shahrukh or Amitabh or to become the next Dhirubhai Ambani (founder of Reliance Industries). I am sure there are millions like me who balcony watch and see these cars drive by and daydream about these bigshots...however we all too often are only interested in the present---when one is at the top...rarely do we take the time to look back and try to understand how Ambani became who he was...for the uninitiated here is the story...
http://www.rediff.com/money/2003/jul/05sld1.htm
Back to my speal-every time I am here I experience such an intense desire to just stay back here---FOREVER!!! Of course that's not to say Bombay is all pretty---with pretty also comes the harsh realities. More often then not people forget that out of a billion only one is lucky to emerge as an Ambani or Tata or what not. The amount of poverty in Bombay is also more then I have seen in any of the other cities. I leave here soon but I already know I will be back soon enough---I don't think a trip to India could ever be complete without a visit to Bombay and who knows maybe someday if I am lucky enough I may find myself living here :):):)
Monday, July 2, 2007
Unexpected Rains (or so it is called by some)
Saturday, June 30, 2007
June Monsoons
Friday, June 29, 2007
India '07 Pictures
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146118&l=91aa1&id=3429492
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146138&l=50354&id=3429492
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146141&l=92dd8&id=3429492
Mission Bombay
Public Health Aside: Public Bathing-I am not sure what obsession people have w/that!!! The water is anything but clean and it doesn't help that people enter w/minimal clothes...not sure what exactly must be excreted from their body during the time they spend in the water. I don't like to sound so cynical but having seen it firsthand I cannot help but think that way. Furthermore---it amazed Farah as well as me to notice that at both locations (at Kempty as well as here in Sahas) there was trash strewn all over the place (literally ALL over the place)---however it didn't seem to bother anyone...they just casually went ahead bathing and making merry. At a deeper level that said so much:
-How in America we are conditioned to expect a high level of cleanliness.
-How in general people here have resigned to the fact that throwing trash anywhere is
just an acceptable norm.
-How it doesn't take long for one ice cream wrapper or Lays bag on the ground to turn
into a hundred or even a thousand (when I say thousand I am NOT exaggerating).
-How there are people here who are forced into making a living digging out
trash---contrary to the $15.00/hourly made by Waste Management personnel in the US.
***Clearly what Farah and I define as worth seeing varies from what the public in general seems to like here. We walked back to the opposite side from the bus depot and found very few people and a just a peaceful serene atmosphere which should be the real highlight---atleast in our opinion!!! We took it in for a few minutes before heading off to catch the bus---which I must add was a semi-pleasant experience...as soon as the TC noticed it was two women travelling he had room made for us to sit...very considerate.
Thursday (yesterday) we left Dehradun in the evening on the Shatabdi Express after spending some people-watching time at the Dehradun station. What a train ride...it was definitely living the hi-life...they feed u and feed u and feed u (throughout the 5 and a 1/2 hours)...and all w/a smile on their face. We arrived late in Delhi around 11 and took a rickshaw back to Chandrika aunty's house...this morning we flew out of Delhi to Bombay which was another pleasant experience for more then one reasons. The saying 'you get what you pay for' is indeed very true---I had stressed through all my trip abt how I had far too much luggage to fly domestic...at Kingfisher Check-In I was exempt for the extra weight (thank you SO much lady whose name I do not know) and then we flew in total style on board. Jet Airways has some serious competition cuz the beer moghul Vijay Mallaya clearly works in style and it is apparent through his airline.
We are now settled in at Renu aunty's house---where it is beyond pleasant :):):) Sorry I realize this post has nothing substantive...but what can I say-when is anything I ever say substantive?
Tuesday, June 26, 2007
Mussoorie (no pictures)
Today we headed off around 8 in a rented taxi to drive up to Mussoorie. For the uninitiated Mussoorie is a hill station located among the Himalayas. The drive up was steep and curvy but the views were AMAZING. Dehradun down below as we climbed above the clouds and it was all just so much to take in. Before taking us to Mall Road in proper Mussoorie our driver took us to Kempty Falls which is another 15 kilometers past Mussoorie. The fall was sorta joke w/people bathing below...disgusting to be quite frank-would rather not think abt the hygiene conditions!!! The drive to Kempty however gave us our first glimpse of the ranges on the other side...we were driving among the Himalayan ranges :) Post-Kempy and a pathetic ropeway ride we headed back to Mall Road which is the center spot of Mussoorie. We walked quite far down Mall Road which is full of shops and restaurants and most of all PEOPLE!!! Throughout the entire stretch of the road however there is a constant view of the Dehradun Valley below as well as the surrounding mountains...Farah and I both found it breathtaking and it was totally worth the time and trip to Dehradun!!!
Public Health Aside: Indian people (my people) are the nicest and warmest people one can meet but they are extremely lacking in terms of hygiene and common decency. At Kempty the water was absolutely disgusting w/trash strewn all around and yet people felt perfectly fine stripping down to the minimum to bathe in the Falls water. At Mussoorie we had the same experience...such a beautiful spot which people have managed to make parts of dirty and filthy. Nonetheless in all fairness it must be said that Mussoorie is one of the cleanest places I have visited anywhere in India...there seems to be some form of an effort to keep it atleast semi-clean...
Sunday, June 24, 2007
Dehradun
Dehradun is a hill station located in Uttaranchal that is a key getaway spot for many. It is known as the gateway to the Himalayas and basically the anti-thesis of Delhi. Small-town atmosphere...clearly influenced by the once existing British colony here and also not as hot!!! There is also a lot of military/army influence here---yesterday we passed a military cantonment area and also a lot of houses belonging to formal military officials. We will be here until Thursday when we will head back to Delhi for one-night and thereafter fly to Bombay on Friday morning.
In terms of public health...it is amazing to see the difference here...while we haven't conducted any form of a community assessment it is nonetheless apparent that things are different here then in Delhi...no big-town issues w/a large population or excessive pollution...I am not sure what the key public health concerns here are but I guess that just means one more thing to conduct a lit review on.
A big thanks to Farah's bua Chandrikaunty w/whom went spent a wonderful Saturday---she fed us and fed us and fed us :):):) We will be spending the night there on Thursday as well...keeping this short as there is not much more to write...
Thursday, June 21, 2007
Bye Bye CFHI & Delhi
(Dates on these computers are screwed up...June 22nd at 11 am is my sign in time)
Writing in a few days later as net access is not as easy especially walking over from Manu. Today is the last official CFHI Day and was supposed to be the Mewat trip for Farah, Emma, Paul, and me but I wasn't up to it. Farah and Paul went ahead to represent :) Yesterday evening was our expensive dinner/meeting w/Hema-Sudarshan-Dr. Raina where we in a sort of diplomatic manner made them aware of all our complaints/concerns that had risen over the past four weeks. Tonight three of the gang members leave...tomm two more...and on Sunday evening Linda the last one leaves. Thereafter it is Farah and me...me and Farah :)
Our rotation this week was at Bapu Nature and it proved to be quite monotonous and disastrous. Harsimran from Bapu was to serve as our coordinator and she did by creating this second by second schedule starting from 6:30 and going until 4-5 pm. All of this might have been okay minus a few key points:
-We were not staying at Bapu itself and therefore walking back and forth from Manu definitely made it harder.
-There was no orientation to the center or the form of medicine and therefore we were essentially thrown into it.
-All five days consisted of OPD Rounds as well as lectures which was just too much and too repetitive...what we learned in OPD was repeated in lecture and it just came down to poor utilization of our time.
-That is just FAR too long a day...extremely demanding w/the weather and what-not.
Sunday Farah and I head off early in the morning so not sure when or where we will be online...am sure there will be net access just not sure when we will get around to it.
Monday, June 18, 2007
Bapu and Manu
Back in Delhi...not sure how happy I am abt it...we are back at Bapu and Manu...if that makes any sense. On Sunday we had a smooth drive over from Jaipur to Delhi---a quick ride it seemed like. After arrival is where the fun-stuff started. Apparently there was no car waiting to pick us up and do the needful to drop us off. After a million calls and quite a hassle there was a car sent over to take us to Vasant Kunj and thereafter to Bapu. Acchelalji was happy and this was only the second time ever that I saw him smile---right after Linda wished him a Happy Father's Day...
On our drive to Bapu we came to know that we wouldn't be staying at Bapu but rather a Manu Apartments that is nearby. Manu is okay...the only bit that we are TRULY bitter abt is the bathroom. Dude the entire stay they provide us w/reasonable stuff and then this!!! So Indian...really!!! We are making it work and we all seem to have fun laughing it off but it's definitely not acceptable...CFHI is gonna be hearing abt this though I really doubt they will do anything abt it---isn't that how it always works?
Yesterday our rotation at Bapu started...not the most thrilling I tell u. And if these people are supposed to sell naturopthy or ayurveda to us they are most certainly not doing a very convincing job. I played hookie today to come here and blog etc because our time wasn't being utilized in the most effective manner over there. The Bapu schedule for the week involves yoga at 6:30 am...then a break...then OPD rounds...then break/lunch...then lecture...and finally a meditation hour at 3 pm. It wld all be okay if we were staying at Bapu---but we're not!!! Apparently some ministers visited Bapu and so they took up the rooms we were supposed to have---I hope someday someone takes on these damn politicans who are nothing but an absolute inconvinience to society as a whole and in particular to developing nations like India.
It's been raining off and on and so the streets are ANYTHING but pleasant in particular the smells!!! Paul concluded today that a sewage system is needed---lol---if only it was that simple. The gang minus the three Indians is off to Agra on Thursday so that should be interesting...the Indians are planning to stay here and go shopping.
Finally after all my cribbing I want to wish dad a very Happy Father's Day!!! I am here because of you and you have made me what I am :):):) I am pretty poor and kinda far away so those wishes will have to suffice on their own w/out any gift for now.
Saturday, June 16, 2007
Last Meal(s) and Oh Yeah HIV
Today our presentations were of an idea we came up of on our own---we each chose a country/area of the world that we would research on about HIV-AIDS and thereafter present to Dr. Goyal. It was quite interesting to see that there both many similarities as well as key differences among all of the communities---US, Japan, Korea, Cuba, SE Asia (four countries), Russian Federation, and last but not least Canada. It became apparent more and more as our presentation progressed that in some parts of the world the situation is not nearly as grave as in other parts---for example in the US or Canada the rates seem so trivial in comparision to India or Thailand or sub-Saharan Africa. It was also interesting to note that nations considered quite 'modern' by some in fact are struggling to deal w/a conservative-minded population whereas in other nations that one may traditionally imagine as being very conservative in fact are quite open when dealing w/these issues...
Friday, June 15, 2007
The Story of Our Trip
Thursday, June 14, 2007
Ranthambore Park---Wildlife Safari



(Below: One of the many tiger paw prints we saw on our route)







Sawai Madhopur
Below: Our room...lol...
Below: More of our room...
Below: View from across the hospital...pretty hut...

Below: Bio-Gas Unit (here the dung is put in and churned)
Below: View from outside hospital...

Below: Walking tour of the village---kids, kids and more kids...

Below: Public School---Rathores Devloped
Below: Us w/none other then Tiger Man Fateh Singh Rathore...

Yesterday morning we left to drive from Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur (the entire area is known primarily for its tiger sanctuary---Rathambore Park---where the famous Indian tiger is being protected from extinction)....close to a four hour drive from the institute. We saw all kinds of things on the way to Sawai...animals...people...what not. After arriving we met up w/the executive director Rupinder who briefed us on the hospital as well as the key programs being run.
-One of the main ones the Bio-Gas program to provide an alternate source of energy...a family or two families together are given one Bio-Gas unit for a mere cost of 2000 Rs. to prove the needed energy supply. The Bio-Gas unit is developed so as to use cow dung to produce the needed energy. The waste from this unit can then be utilized as fertilizer for the fields...ultimately resulting in close to 100% use of the dung. Farmers wanting to qualify for this unit need to meet only two pre-requisites...one they must own enough cattle to provide the dung and two they must have enough space w/in their housing area to maintain distance between the unit and the actual house. Earlier on the units were to be given at no cost however it soon became apparent that people then took the unit for granted as they had made no formal investment into it.
-The other programs deal with encouraging artificial insemination to farmers for breeding cows as well as methods of taking care of the cattle w/out disrupting the wildlife within the park.
We stayed in the hospital ward...lol on patient beds as you can see in the pictures. The hospital is a well-developed institution that works to meet the needs of the community to the best of its ability.
One key aspect of all of this that I haven't mentioned yet is the Rathore family...Fateh Singh Rathore...a park ranger (who is quite elderly now) and a man whose lifelong passion has been working towards saving Indian tigers. He has been working endlessly alongside his son Dr. Rathore to save the tigers in the Ranthambore Park as well as assist the community in whatever they may need. The Rathores have established the hospital we visited w/assistance from donors and are constantly tackling the government and corrupt system who is responsible for the near extinction of the Indian tiger (there were at one time 80 tigers in the park and due to poachers the number is down to 25 or so---extremely grave situation). They have also created a state of the art school (absolutely fantastic) for the village children to be schooled in---upon meeting certain conditions girls from the village are schooled free and boys are educated on a concession price. We had the opportunity to meet w/Dr. Rathore at his farmhouse (gorgeous place) in the evening for a brief chat and also met w/the Tiger Man (that is how he is globally renowned---Google him to see) Mr. Fateh Singh Rathore today!!!
We also visited one of the villages...and walked around to get a feel of it...there was also a brief stop to check out a Bio-Gas unit as well as the school...simple piece of machinery and yet amazing!!!
Tuesday, June 12, 2007
HOT!!!
Below: Emergency Room Stretchers
Below: Clients/family waiting for services
Below: Condom Dispenser
Today we headed off for our site visits...first of which was at SMS Medical College Hospital. It was extremely busy and clearly not Apollo Indraprastha. And why would it be? clearly this hospital was not for the elite but rather for the common man...so many people everywhere...so many people sleeping/waiting outside. We headed to the HIV-ARV clinic only to find it just as chaotic with people waiting in the halls to see the doctor. Inside the clinic room we met a young lady doctor (funny part is none of us know her name) and a female counsellor who was assisting her. She took out time from her busy schedule (she works Monday-Saturday from 8-2 pm and sees approximately a 100 patients a day) to talk to us about what she does and what services are provided.
The clients served at the clinic are all HIV+ and many of whom are on ARV therapy (anti-retroviral). The client population is a mixed match as both genders are served but among the males truck drivers/masons are the most common. The clinic has approximately 2100 clients in their files that come to receive services. She made clear that for the time she has been working there she has come to realize that what is most essential is to continue working towards raising awareness about HIV-AIDS. It is only with this that behavioral change is possible---family referral is also encouraged during the counselling sessions and she told us (surprisingly) that many in fact do bring their spouses and/or children in for testing. While sitting there a sense of guilt did creep upon us because we realized that the time she spent talking to us was otherwise very valuable time for her and in particular the clients...so many people and one doctor to serve them. Apparently SMS is on a lookout to find a junior medical officer for her but as of yet no one has been found and so she has been handling the case load on her own.
Post clinic visit we had a change in schedlue and headed off to the Jeevan Jyoti center where HIV+ pts are provided a safe-haven when suffering from opportunistic infections. The center currently has ten beds which are available to both men as well as women. The max time that any client can spend at JJ is fifteen days. It was somewhat similar to SAHARA Michael's but much smaller. One thing that I loved was outside in the driveway on the wall was a condom dispenser---the same one Dr. Gupta showed us yesterday as well as we have researched about back at 'SC :):):) Yes it's sad that a condom dispenser excites me but anyway.
Just finished up lunch at the institute and came down here for some net time before a 3:00 (or 3:30 who knows) lecture w/Dr. Goyal...
Monday, June 11, 2007
Yesterday
ASIDE: Dinner was wonderful and we had a great time but I couldn't help but wonder abt all the kids working there. All throughout the day we learn abt child labor and exploitation and what not and yet here at the dinner resort so many of the children were performing etc. It felt hypocritical in a sense...to be public health advocates to visit site after site learning about child labor etc and then to participate in the very same thing. Apparently it was very casual for Dr. Goyal and Hema/Sudarshan etc but it just didn't feel right at some level.
Above/Below: Entrance to Dinner Resort
Below: Paul and I on camel ride :):):)
Below: Elephant Ride Group---Emma, Farah, Me, Jasmin
Below: Riding on Champa!!!Below: Indian boy acrobats---or something like it
Below: Whole Group---CFHI Gang, Dr. Goyal and Family, Sudarshan/Hema and Family

Lovely IHMR and FXB
Post-lunch we headed off to the FXB office where we met up w/Dr. Gupta the executive director of the FXB program run here in India. He told us about the three projects run by FXB within India...unfortunately I don't have my notes here so I will have to come back and write in the details. But I must say they run fantastic programs...all very original with some great ideas. The program is sponsored by a Countess from France who is basically loaded. Heck she had Harvard name one of the the buildings after her late son for a whopping $20 million (http://www.fxb.org/www2/main_directories/albina.htm). Her money is well-spent here and some great work is done.
After the site visit headed off to the hospital for Emma's appt w/the doc and we hung around the market type street...nothing special...so no real shopping done...which was a small bummer. We are now headed off to dinner which Dr. Goyal is treating us to...supposed to be a resort type place serving traditional food etc etc...
Sunday, June 10, 2007
Deported to America
Saturday, June 9, 2007
IIHMR
So day two at the IIHMR (Indian Institute of Health Management Research) in Jaipur. It is a really nice campus and we are seeing so today in the bright Jaipur sun. Our rooms are nice---and most importantly COOL (thus far). The gang minus Farah, Emma and myself went sightseeing as wedecided to stay back here. It's been a crazy two weeks so wanted to stay back and just relax as the week ahead of us looks like it'll be quite busy. Plus this is the first time since arriving that we're sitting comfortably in a computer lab...no mosquitos...no time limit...fast internet :):):)
Attached below are the pics I took yesterday after arriving at our IIHMR Rooms as well as the whole gang at dinner...mom make sure you look closely and see who is on the TV screen (click on the picture to make it bigger to see)...
Below: View from our apartment floor


Jaipur



***Above is all at the Delhi Bus Depot***
Today we headed off pretty early in the morning for the bus depot in the NICE part of Delhi (post aloo/puri made by Acchelal)...we passed India Gate...Parliament...Prime Minister's residence on our way to catch our luxury bus. Today was definitely living the Indian hi-life...our bus was AC...cushioned seats...tinted windows...the works. A comfortable 5 hour ride to Jaipur---riding on the bus and train in India beats out flying almost anytime...just so much to see and keep you entertained. Arrived at the Jaipur depot and then were driven to IIHMR. Definitely a nice place...sorta set away from the chaos of the city and after days we all are in a area w/some level of sanity :):):) Read no rickshaws or cars or people or vegetable sellers etc etc etc. Settled into our rooms...enjoyed a pretty nice dinner in a sorta fancy setting---you will see w/the pictures...and then found this American style computer lab...first comfort zone on the computer since we arrived :):):)
Enough of the day's happenings...below I am pasting in something that I read earlier today and has really struck a chord in my mind...
BEING IN TWENTIES - SOMETHING
It is when you stop going along with the crowd and start realizing that there are many things about yourself that you didn't know and may not like. You start feeling insecure and wonder where you will be in a year or two, but then get scared because you barely know where you are now.
You start realizing that people are selfish and that, maybe, those friends that you thought you were so close to aren't exactly the greatest people you have ever met, and the people you have lost touch with are some of the most important ones. What you don't recognize is that they are realizing that too, and aren't really cold, catty, mean or insincere, but that they are as confused as you.
You look at your job... and it is not even close to what you thought you would be doing, or maybe you are looking for a job and realizing that you are going to have to start at the bottom and that scares you.
Your opinions have gotten stronger. You see what others are doing and find yourself judging more than usual because suddenly you realize that you have certain boundaries in your life and are constantly adding things to your list of what is acceptable and what isn't. One minute, you are insecure and then the next, secure.
You laugh and cry with the greatest force of your life. You feel alone and scared and confused. Suddenly, change is the enemy and you try and cling on to the past with dear life, but soon realize that the past is drifting further and further away, and there is nothing to do but stay where you are or move forward.
You get your heart broken and wonder how someone you loved could do such damage to you. Or you lie in bed and wonder why you can't meet anyone decent enough that you want to get to know better. Or maybe you love someone but love someone else too and cannot figure out why you're doing this because you know that you aren't a bad person. One night stands and random hook ups start to look cheap. Getting wasted and acting like an idiot starts to look pathetic. You go through the same emotions and questions over and over, and talk with your friends about the same topics because you cannot seem to make a decision. You worry about loans, money, the future and making a life for yourself... and while winning the race would be great, right now you'd just like to be a contender!
What you may not realize is that every one reading this relates to it. We are in our best of times and our worst of times, trying as hard as we can to figure this whole thing out. Send this to your twenty-something friends... maybe it will help someone feel like they aren't alone in their state of confusion...
We call it the "Quarter-life Crisis."
FATE DETERMINES WHO COMES INTO OUR LIVES.....HEART DETERMINES WHO STAYS








