Bhagawan Bharose

So here I am sitting at the Taipei airport enjoying uninterrupted net access after a long time :) Sounds spoiled eh? Bear with this message because a couple of my keys are not working for an unknown reason. The last two months were an amazing experience and far too much has happened for me to remember all of it. While this entire thing started off being for our public health practicum it turned into so much more. India never fails to entertain---never!!!

Sitting among the chaos at Delhi airport just some hours back (and I mean chaos-that too post-midnight) I realized that some things never change here. Absolutely no sense of discipline (people pushing and shoving for luggage carts)-no sense of professionalism (a poor family was told by Air India they would have to wait a day to fly for no apparent reason)-no sense of punctuality (at 11:00 flights that left at 10:00 still displayed on the massive departures board)---and yet everything just sort of falling into place and working out. A common joke across India is that the nation runs 'bhagawan bharose' a la 'at the mercy of the Lord' and boy is that true---be it the traffic or the million shops on the streets or the local buses which look like they will fall apart any minute (personally I feel even if the buses were to fall apart the people inside would still be sitting in mid-air because they are all so tightly packed in).

My time in Baroda was great as I got a chance to relax and spend time w/family---but even amidst all that I could not help but notice how quickly and drastically it is changing. Malls are springing up around every corner...grocery stores are taking over the vegetable/fruit markets (thank you Reliance)...and people are trying to be as western as they can possibly afford---or in some cases people don't even seem to care whether they can afford it or not. And interestingly---even after being a fairly conservative smaller city (though it is well on it's way to becoming a metro city in a matter of years) one can spot more and more CSW's on the streets. These women work between cities to meet client needs---e.g. Baroda-Mumbai or Baroda-Delhi or Baroda-Ahmedabad. The rates that CSW's earned in Delhi sounded low---but not after I heard the rates here---around 5-10 Rs. to provide services to one client and around 45-50 Rs. to provide services to 4-5 clients at ONCE. Cutting it short---will add on more later...

Bombay Dreams

Balcony Watching and Bombay-Mumbai Dreams...

One thing I have loved at Renu aunty's Mahim apartment has been her balcony from our bedroom....I could stand there for hours (in fact I spend my first few moments every morning just standing at the balcony watching the morning jam below) and just watch the cars pass by and India be India. I won't lie---my favorite part of balcony watching is spotting Mercedes', BMW's and yes even Lexus' though they are not as common here. I have almost spotted as many Benzes here as I used to see on the SoCal freeways. To me that says a lot about the current day India---it is booming!!! Well at least it is booming for some and not so much so for others. Right across from the balcony we can see an old disheveled trashed house (close to a slum in my opinion) and it amazes me to just think about the clear-cut contrast...w/Benzes rolling down the street and a house like that in the background w/trash strewn all over the front yard one cannot but help wonder if India really is booming after all? Or is it simply that the disparities are more apparent now then ever before and therefore just as we're managing to see the struggle of the poor more now then ever before we are also seeing the massive financial boost that others are experiencing?

Bombay in my opinion is truly a city of dreams in every form---it has this feel to it---a feeling that sets it aside from all the other (the few) cities that I have visited across India. I can truly understand now why every year thousands flock here from other cities or towns or villages to make their dreams come true---be it a dream to become the next Shahrukh or Amitabh or to become the next Dhirubhai Ambani (founder of Reliance Industries). I am sure there are millions like me who balcony watch and see these cars drive by and daydream about these bigshots...however we all too often are only interested in the present---when one is at the top...rarely do we take the time to look back and try to understand how Ambani became who he was...for the uninitiated here is the story...

http://www.rediff.com/money/2003/jul/05sld1.htm

Back to my speal-every time I am here I experience such an intense desire to just stay back here---FOREVER!!! Of course that's not to say Bombay is all pretty---with pretty also comes the harsh realities. More often then not people forget that out of a billion only one is lucky to emerge as an Ambani or Tata or what not. The amount of poverty in Bombay is also more then I have seen in any of the other cities. I leave here soon but I already know I will be back soon enough---I don't think a trip to India could ever be complete without a visit to Bombay and who knows maybe someday if I am lucky enough I may find myself living here :):):)

Unexpected Rains (or so it is called by some)

It is quite saddening to see the state of affairs in Bombay in terms of government and official response to the Bombay rains. One cannot help but notice the parallel to the extremely poor response to the crisis during Hurricane Katrina. Day after day newspapers publish stories reporting the struggles of Mumbai-ites and yet none of it seems to trigger any form of response from those who have been elected to deal with these very situations...one cannot but help think of Ray Nagin and Kathleen Blanco and who not. The story here is same as there---just as Nagin and the DC Black Suits are busy pointing fingers at each other same is the case here...actually it's an attitude of sheer ignorance. The mayor just in yesterday's paper has been criticized for lack of response and yet it is apparent that come the time she (the mayor is a female---interestingly she lives in the mayoral house a bit further down in the same row as we are staying) will dismiss the lack of response to unexpected amounts of rainfall...sounds just about right. The question then becomes---what can be done about it? Who are we to sit here and blame the Mumbai-ites for not doing anything??? The same is the case in the US no??? I cannot count how many times people here have brought up Georgie Boy and asked why we elected him in not once BUT twice...do we have an answer??? No!!! Just as we sit helplessly and wonder what exactly is going on---same is the case here...

June Monsoons

Ever heard of 'em in Bombay? Even the Mumbaites have not and yet they are here...it just rains and rains and rains. Day and night. We arrived here Sunday and it's just been raining on and off continuously...we are going to attempt to head out today...lets see how it goes...

India '07 Pictures

I have finally been able to load up quite a few of the India pictures...here are the links...just click on them:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146118&l=91aa1&id=3429492

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146138&l=50354&id=3429492

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=2146141&l=92dd8&id=3429492

Mission Bombay

Farah and I wrapped up Dehradun w/a bang...as always. The day bfr we left we started off our day lazing at Coffee Day. But that just wasn't stimulating enough for us and we headed off to Sahastradhara---supposedly one of the must see's of Dehradun. We took a Vikram (group rickshaw---mad cheap) to Astley Hall and from there found a city bus going to Sahastradhara---I promise u if there was any method of transportation that had been left untouched we made sure it was touched upon by us. So we arrive at Sahas after an interesting ride (Farah and I were the most foreign creatures that had ever boarded that bus) and follow the crowd that unloaded w/us because they clearly seemed to know where to go!!! So we walk and walk and walk and by God what do we come across??? Yes-a little water stream thing w/tons and tons of ppl bathing...uncles w/minimal clothes...yuck. So after a good hike we realized how worthy the trip to Sahas indeed is and headed back to the bus depot and headed back to Dehradun. The ride to Astely---Rs. 6...the ride to Sahas and back---Rs. 32...the ride home---free as we walked home...so for under a dollar total we explored and adventured for three-hours!!! Farahmeister and Sej never fail to entertain!!!

Public Health Aside: Public Bathing-I am not sure what obsession people have w/that!!! The water is anything but clean and it doesn't help that people enter w/minimal clothes...not sure what exactly must be excreted from their body during the time they spend in the water. I don't like to sound so cynical but having seen it firsthand I cannot help but think that way. Furthermore---it amazed Farah as well as me to notice that at both locations (at Kempty as well as here in Sahas) there was trash strewn all over the place (literally ALL over the place)---however it didn't seem to bother anyone...they just casually went ahead bathing and making merry. At a deeper level that said so much:

-How in America we are conditioned to expect a high level of cleanliness.
-How in general people here have resigned to the fact that throwing trash anywhere is
just an acceptable norm.
-How it doesn't take long for one ice cream wrapper or Lays bag on the ground to turn
into a hundred or even a thousand (when I say thousand I am NOT exaggerating).
-How there are people here who are forced into making a living digging out
trash---contrary to the $15.00/hourly made by Waste Management personnel in the US.

***Clearly what Farah and I define as worth seeing varies from what the public in general seems to like here. We walked back to the opposite side from the bus depot and found very few people and a just a peaceful serene atmosphere which should be the real highlight---atleast in our opinion!!! We took it in for a few minutes before heading off to catch the bus---which I must add was a semi-pleasant experience...as soon as the TC noticed it was two women travelling he had room made for us to sit...very considerate.

Thursday (yesterday) we left Dehradun in the evening on the Shatabdi Express after spending some people-watching time at the Dehradun station. What a train ride...it was definitely living the hi-life...they feed u and feed u and feed u (throughout the 5 and a 1/2 hours)...and all w/a smile on their face. We arrived late in Delhi around 11 and took a rickshaw back to Chandrika aunty's house...this morning we flew out of Delhi to Bombay which was another pleasant experience for more then one reasons. The saying 'you get what you pay for' is indeed very true---I had stressed through all my trip abt how I had far too much luggage to fly domestic...at Kingfisher Check-In I was exempt for the extra weight (thank you SO much lady whose name I do not know) and then we flew in total style on board. Jet Airways has some serious competition cuz the beer moghul Vijay Mallaya clearly works in style and it is apparent through his airline.

We are now settled in at Renu aunty's house---where it is beyond pleasant :):):) Sorry I realize this post has nothing substantive...but what can I say-when is anything I ever say substantive?

Mussoorie (no pictures)

Above: I couldn't help it...so I googled and stole a picture to give a sampling of what we saw...

Before I start...I am a fool and left my camera USB wire back in Delhi and so cannot load pictures...writing abt Mussorrie w/out pictures is as good as not mentioning it at all...

Today we headed off around 8 in a rented taxi to drive up to Mussoorie. For the uninitiated Mussoorie is a hill station located among the Himalayas. The drive up was steep and curvy but the views were AMAZING. Dehradun down below as we climbed above the clouds and it was all just so much to take in. Before taking us to Mall Road in proper Mussoorie our driver took us to Kempty Falls which is another 15 kilometers past Mussoorie. The fall was sorta joke w/people bathing below...disgusting to be quite frank-would rather not think abt the hygiene conditions!!! The drive to Kempty however gave us our first glimpse of the ranges on the other side...we were driving among the Himalayan ranges :) Post-Kempy and a pathetic ropeway ride we headed back to Mall Road which is the center spot of Mussoorie. We walked quite far down Mall Road which is full of shops and restaurants and most of all PEOPLE!!! Throughout the entire stretch of the road however there is a constant view of the Dehradun Valley below as well as the surrounding mountains...Farah and I both found it breathtaking and it was totally worth the time and trip to Dehradun!!!

Public Health Aside: Indian people (my people) are the nicest and warmest people one can meet but they are extremely lacking in terms of hygiene and common decency. At Kempty the water was absolutely disgusting w/trash strewn all around and yet people felt perfectly fine stripping down to the minimum to bathe in the Falls water. At Mussoorie we had the same experience...such a beautiful spot which people have managed to make parts of dirty and filthy. Nonetheless in all fairness it must be said that Mussoorie is one of the cleanest places I have visited anywhere in India...there seems to be some form of an effort to keep it atleast semi-clean...

Dehradun

Writing in from Dehradun!!! Our program ended Friday and everyone flew back this past weekend. The three desi's are still in the desh...Sophia is in Bangalore while Farah and I arrived in Dehradun early yesterday morning. We took in a late night train on Saturday (AC 2-Tier Sleeper) and checked in at the Best Western here. Have a real bathroom after four-weeks (the closest we got bfr was at IHMR but there was no shower curtain there). And most importantly a Coffee Day right across.

Dehradun is a hill station located in Uttaranchal that is a key getaway spot for many. It is known as the gateway to the Himalayas and basically the anti-thesis of Delhi. Small-town atmosphere...clearly influenced by the once existing British colony here and also not as hot!!! There is also a lot of military/army influence here---yesterday we passed a military cantonment area and also a lot of houses belonging to formal military officials. We will be here until Thursday when we will head back to Delhi for one-night and thereafter fly to Bombay on Friday morning.

In terms of public health...it is amazing to see the difference here...while we haven't conducted any form of a community assessment it is nonetheless apparent that things are different here then in Delhi...no big-town issues w/a large population or excessive pollution...I am not sure what the key public health concerns here are but I guess that just means one more thing to conduct a lit review on.

A big thanks to Farah's bua Chandrikaunty w/whom went spent a wonderful Saturday---she fed us and fed us and fed us :):):) We will be spending the night there on Thursday as well...keeping this short as there is not much more to write...

Bye Bye CFHI & Delhi

Gang on Last CFHI Friday: Satoko, Me, Paul, Linda, Sophia, Emma, Farah, Shalini, Jazmin

(Dates on these computers are screwed up...June 22nd at 11 am is my sign in time)

Writing in a few days later as net access is not as easy especially walking over from Manu. Today is the last official CFHI Day and was supposed to be the Mewat trip for Farah, Emma, Paul, and me but I wasn't up to it. Farah and Paul went ahead to represent :) Yesterday evening was our expensive dinner/meeting w/Hema-Sudarshan-Dr. Raina where we in a sort of diplomatic manner made them aware of all our complaints/concerns that had risen over the past four weeks. Tonight three of the gang members leave...tomm two more...and on Sunday evening Linda the last one leaves. Thereafter it is Farah and me...me and Farah :)

Our rotation this week was at Bapu Nature and it proved to be quite monotonous and disastrous. Harsimran from Bapu was to serve as our coordinator and she did by creating this second by second schedule starting from 6:30 and going until 4-5 pm. All of this might have been okay minus a few key points:

-We were not staying at Bapu itself and therefore walking back and forth from Manu definitely made it harder.
-There was no orientation to the center or the form of medicine and therefore we were essentially thrown into it.
-All five days consisted of OPD Rounds as well as lectures which was just too much and too repetitive...what we learned in OPD was repeated in lecture and it just came down to poor utilization of our time.
-That is just FAR too long a day...extremely demanding w/the weather and what-not.

Sunday Farah and I head off early in the morning so not sure when or where we will be online...am sure there will be net access just not sure when we will get around to it.

Bapu and Manu

***Btw we no longer have IHMR Computer Labs so back to the ghetto cyber cafe---the date of this blog is wrong---I am writing it on Tuesday...***

Back in Delhi...not sure how happy I am abt it...we are back at Bapu and Manu...if that makes any sense. On Sunday we had a smooth drive over from Jaipur to Delhi---a quick ride it seemed like. After arrival is where the fun-stuff started. Apparently there was no car waiting to pick us up and do the needful to drop us off. After a million calls and quite a hassle there was a car sent over to take us to Vasant Kunj and thereafter to Bapu. Acchelalji was happy and this was only the second time ever that I saw him smile---right after Linda wished him a Happy Father's Day...

On our drive to Bapu we came to know that we wouldn't be staying at Bapu but rather a Manu Apartments that is nearby. Manu is okay...the only bit that we are TRULY bitter abt is the bathroom. Dude the entire stay they provide us w/reasonable stuff and then this!!! So Indian...really!!! We are making it work and we all seem to have fun laughing it off but it's definitely not acceptable...CFHI is gonna be hearing abt this though I really doubt they will do anything abt it---isn't that how it always works?

Yesterday our rotation at Bapu started...not the most thrilling I tell u. And if these people are supposed to sell naturopthy or ayurveda to us they are most certainly not doing a very convincing job. I played hookie today to come here and blog etc because our time wasn't being utilized in the most effective manner over there. The Bapu schedule for the week involves yoga at 6:30 am...then a break...then OPD rounds...then break/lunch...then lecture...and finally a meditation hour at 3 pm. It wld all be okay if we were staying at Bapu---but we're not!!! Apparently some ministers visited Bapu and so they took up the rooms we were supposed to have---I hope someday someone takes on these damn politicans who are nothing but an absolute inconvinience to society as a whole and in particular to developing nations like India.

It's been raining off and on and so the streets are ANYTHING but pleasant in particular the smells!!! Paul concluded today that a sewage system is needed---lol---if only it was that simple. The gang minus the three Indians is off to Agra on Thursday so that should be interesting...the Indians are planning to stay here and go shopping.

Finally after all my cribbing I want to wish dad a very Happy Father's Day!!! I am here because of you and you have made me what I am :):):) I am pretty poor and kinda far away so those wishes will have to suffice on their own w/out any gift for now.

Last Meal(s) and Oh Yeah HIV

Today was our last day at IIHMR as we head back tomorrow morning for what??? Nothing other then Bapu Nature...wildlife preserve within the city (located in Padpadganj near Mother Dairy---entrance fee: talk to Dr. Nair) where one can freely find lizards and flying-lizards and flying roaches and mosquitoes and what not!!! And to think they would take us from a place like that and dare to put us in the luxury of IIHMR. The meals and computer lab will be dearly missed...though dinner today was a bummer...definitely not The Last Supper in style :( Today the morning was spent prepping on the presentation which we didn't do until after lunch and Dr. Goyal apparently didn't seem to be too intrigued by. He kept falling asleep throughout the presentations-and I promise our PPT was not that bad!!! Post presentation we headed off to the movies but again had no luck w/no Shootout At Lokhandwala playing and Jhoom Barabar Jhoom all sold out for the 6 pm show. Went back to the same mall from the Pizza Hut day and did some serious bargaining!!! When I say serious I mean it---we are pretty sure that Paul is more and more thankful everyday that he has no sisters---lol he told us we were being ruthless when in fact we were just being women :):):) Off to Delhi again w/all of it's chaos and more chaos.

Today our presentations were of an idea we came up of on our own---we each chose a country/area of the world that we would research on about HIV-AIDS and thereafter present to Dr. Goyal. It was quite interesting to see that there both many similarities as well as key differences among all of the communities---US, Japan, Korea, Cuba, SE Asia (four countries), Russian Federation, and last but not least Canada. It became apparent more and more as our presentation progressed that in some parts of the world the situation is not nearly as grave as in other parts---for example in the US or Canada the rates seem so trivial in comparision to India or Thailand or sub-Saharan Africa. It was also interesting to note that nations considered quite 'modern' by some in fact are struggling to deal w/a conservative-minded population whereas in other nations that one may traditionally imagine as being very conservative in fact are quite open when dealing w/these issues...

The Story of Our Trip

This is pretty much how we roll...seriously... btw remember SWOT???

Our Strengths: FEW

Our Weaknesses: MANY

Our Opportunities: LIMITED

Threats to Us: MANY

Below: Sophia only reads and Sejal only speaks/understands

Ranthambore Park---Wildlife Safari

Today early morning we went on an open-jeep four hour wildlife safari in Ranthambore Park :) It was an amazing experience and for a minute it felt like being on an African safari (lol not like I know how that feels---but I think we were pretty close to it)...we were transformed into another world for that time. While we saw no tigers (very depressing) we did site many tiger paw prints (bummer) and also saw plenty of other wildlife. The other four gals were able to spot four tigers in their expedition. It was one of the last things we did today at Sawai (aside from the visit to the village and school) and thereafter we headed back to the Institute in Jaipur which is where I am writing from now...check out the pics below from our safari!!! Btw this park has been developed by Mr. Rathore and he is extremely passionate abt it and pretty much lives right next to the park so as to be near it...formerly this park served as the exclusive hunting area for the king of Jaipur some fifty or sixty years back...

(Below: On this Banyan tree there were many marks from Leopards climbing up)

(Below: One of the many tiger paw prints we saw on our route)

Sawai Madhopur

Below: Our room...lol...

Below: More of our room...

Below: View from across the hospital...pretty hut...

Below: Bio-Gas Unit (here the dung is put in and churned)

Below: View from outside hospital...

Below: Walking tour of the village---kids, kids and more kids...

Below: Public School---Rathores Devloped

Below: Us w/none other then Tiger Man Fateh Singh Rathore...

Yesterday morning we left to drive from Jaipur to Sawai Madhopur (the entire area is known primarily for its tiger sanctuary---Rathambore Park---where the famous Indian tiger is being protected from extinction)....close to a four hour drive from the institute. We saw all kinds of things on the way to Sawai...animals...people...what not. After arriving we met up w/the executive director Rupinder who briefed us on the hospital as well as the key programs being run.

-One of the main ones the Bio-Gas program to provide an alternate source of energy...a family or two families together are given one Bio-Gas unit for a mere cost of 2000 Rs. to prove the needed energy supply. The Bio-Gas unit is developed so as to use cow dung to produce the needed energy. The waste from this unit can then be utilized as fertilizer for the fields...ultimately resulting in close to 100% use of the dung. Farmers wanting to qualify for this unit need to meet only two pre-requisites...one they must own enough cattle to provide the dung and two they must have enough space w/in their housing area to maintain distance between the unit and the actual house. Earlier on the units were to be given at no cost however it soon became apparent that people then took the unit for granted as they had made no formal investment into it.

-The other programs deal with encouraging artificial insemination to farmers for breeding cows as well as methods of taking care of the cattle w/out disrupting the wildlife within the park.

We stayed in the hospital ward...lol on patient beds as you can see in the pictures. The hospital is a well-developed institution that works to meet the needs of the community to the best of its ability.

One key aspect of all of this that I haven't mentioned yet is the Rathore family...Fateh Singh Rathore...a park ranger (who is quite elderly now) and a man whose lifelong passion has been working towards saving Indian tigers. He has been working endlessly alongside his son Dr. Rathore to save the tigers in the Ranthambore Park as well as assist the community in whatever they may need. The Rathores have established the hospital we visited w/assistance from donors and are constantly tackling the government and corrupt system who is responsible for the near extinction of the Indian tiger (there were at one time 80 tigers in the park and due to poachers the number is down to 25 or so---extremely grave situation). They have also created a state of the art school (absolutely fantastic) for the village children to be schooled in---upon meeting certain conditions girls from the village are schooled free and boys are educated on a concession price. We had the opportunity to meet w/Dr. Rathore at his farmhouse (gorgeous place) in the evening for a brief chat and also met w/the Tiger Man (that is how he is globally renowned---Google him to see) Mr. Fateh Singh Rathore today!!!

We also visited one of the villages...and walked around to get a feel of it...there was also a brief stop to check out a Bio-Gas unit as well as the school...simple piece of machinery and yet amazing!!!

HOT!!!

SMS Hospital, Jaipur- India

Below: Emergency Room Stretchers

Below: Clients/family waiting for services

Below: Condom Dispenser

Today we headed off for our site visits...first of which was at SMS Medical College Hospital. It was extremely busy and clearly not Apollo Indraprastha. And why would it be? clearly this hospital was not for the elite but rather for the common man...so many people everywhere...so many people sleeping/waiting outside. We headed to the HIV-ARV clinic only to find it just as chaotic with people waiting in the halls to see the doctor. Inside the clinic room we met a young lady doctor (funny part is none of us know her name) and a female counsellor who was assisting her. She took out time from her busy schedule (she works Monday-Saturday from 8-2 pm and sees approximately a 100 patients a day) to talk to us about what she does and what services are provided.

The clients served at the clinic are all HIV+ and many of whom are on ARV therapy (anti-retroviral). The client population is a mixed match as both genders are served but among the males truck drivers/masons are the most common. The clinic has approximately 2100 clients in their files that come to receive services. She made clear that for the time she has been working there she has come to realize that what is most essential is to continue working towards raising awareness about HIV-AIDS. It is only with this that behavioral change is possible---family referral is also encouraged during the counselling sessions and she told us (surprisingly) that many in fact do bring their spouses and/or children in for testing. While sitting there a sense of guilt did creep upon us because we realized that the time she spent talking to us was otherwise very valuable time for her and in particular the clients...so many people and one doctor to serve them. Apparently SMS is on a lookout to find a junior medical officer for her but as of yet no one has been found and so she has been handling the case load on her own.

Post clinic visit we had a change in schedlue and headed off to the Jeevan Jyoti center where HIV+ pts are provided a safe-haven when suffering from opportunistic infections. The center currently has ten beds which are available to both men as well as women. The max time that any client can spend at JJ is fifteen days. It was somewhat similar to SAHARA Michael's but much smaller. One thing that I loved was outside in the driveway on the wall was a condom dispenser---the same one Dr. Gupta showed us yesterday as well as we have researched about back at 'SC :):):) Yes it's sad that a condom dispenser excites me but anyway.

Just finished up lunch at the institute and came down here for some net time before a 3:00 (or 3:30 who knows) lecture w/Dr. Goyal...

Yesterday

On the go but here are a few of the pics from yesterday...the first is another one of the campus...the last few of our dinner at this traditional Rajasthani resort that Dr. Goyal (joined by his wife and son) took us to (Hema and Sudarshan were supposedly headed back to Delhi or so we thought at least when in fact they surprised us by showing up w/their family)...had a blast!!! Camel-ride...elephant ride...the whole package :):):)

ASIDE: Dinner was wonderful and we had a great time but I couldn't help but wonder abt all the kids working there. All throughout the day we learn abt child labor and exploitation and what not and yet here at the dinner resort so many of the children were performing etc. It felt hypocritical in a sense...to be public health advocates to visit site after site learning about child labor etc and then to participate in the very same thing. Apparently it was very casual for Dr. Goyal and Hema/Sudarshan etc but it just didn't feel right at some level.

Above/Below: Entrance to Dinner Resort

Below: Paul and I on camel ride :):):)

Below: Elephant Ride Group---Emma, Farah, Me, Jasmin

Below: Riding on Champa!!!

Below: Indian boy acrobats---or something like it

Below: Whole Group---CFHI Gang, Dr. Goyal and Family, Sudarshan/Hema and Family

Lovely IHMR and FXB

Today was another busy but fun day...we started off w/yet another fancy breakfast (not necessarily the food but the setup). Then headed to our orientation room where we met up w/Dr. Goyal. He spent some time telling us abt IHMR in general and what programs are offered here and what not...thereafter had someone take us on a tour of the campus (nice campus btw)...followed by tea and snacks...and thereafter he spent an hour and a half speaking to us about HIV both globally as well as within India. It was a very informative lecture but I don't think I want to sit here and spit out the lecture notes to you. This followed by lunch---w/in 5 hours we had had three meals...lol crazy!!!

Post-lunch we headed off to the FXB office where we met up w/Dr. Gupta the executive director of the FXB program run here in India. He told us about the three projects run by FXB within India...unfortunately I don't have my notes here so I will have to come back and write in the details. But I must say they run fantastic programs...all very original with some great ideas. The program is sponsored by a Countess from France who is basically loaded. Heck she had Harvard name one of the the buildings after her late son for a whopping $20 million (http://www.fxb.org/www2/main_directories/albina.htm). Her money is well-spent here and some great work is done.

After the site visit headed off to the hospital for Emma's appt w/the doc and we hung around the market type street...nothing special...so no real shopping done...which was a small bummer. We are now headed off to dinner which Dr. Goyal is treating us to...supposed to be a resort type place serving traditional food etc etc...

Deported to America

Yes you read right...to America...not from America. Yesterday when we arrived we all had to go through this massive protocol of filling out basically an immigration form as well as the sign-in book. That required our passport and visa numbers. The dude at the immigration desk at Delhi airport did not even check my visa (meaning I can enter India w/out my visa but not IIHMR). When we told that guy that Shalini has a copy of my passport/visa and possibly Farah's visa he told us to get it to him w/in 24 hours (lol God forbid we're on this campus illegally---afterall we left the US to live here illegally). Then he called this morning in our apartment to ask for Shalini's number...then he hunted down Farah today and asked her for the stuff and suggested that we were in a very vulnerable situation w/out the passport info because God forbid we be kidnapped or be arrested by the police. Honestly though anybody who knows the Indian police system knows that I am SAFER being caught w/out my passport then w/my passport. Atleast that way they won't be able to burn it and prove otherwise...lol therefore passport man has been after us and we are running around the campus trying to avoid him at all costs...if Farah or I don't post again sometime soon then we just may be on our way back to America...imagine that---first Americans deported back to the US!!! And they think that dude w/the TB was a hot story. LA and NY Times are you listening???

IIHMR

On the right of this blog u can find links to Farah and Emma's blogs w/more pictures :):):) Sorry I am so late adding their links on...

So day two at the IIHMR (Indian Institute of Health Management Research) in Jaipur. It is a really nice campus and we are seeing so today in the bright Jaipur sun. Our rooms are nice---and most importantly COOL (thus far). The gang minus Farah, Emma and myself went sightseeing as wedecided to stay back here. It's been a crazy two weeks so wanted to stay back and just relax as the week ahead of us looks like it'll be quite busy. Plus this is the first time since arriving that we're sitting comfortably in a computer lab...no mosquitos...no time limit...fast internet :):):)

Attached below are the pics I took yesterday after arriving at our IIHMR Rooms as well as the whole gang at dinner...mom make sure you look closely and see who is on the TV screen (click on the picture to make it bigger to see)...

Below: View from our apartment floor

Below: Our apartment building

Below: My room

Below: Whole gang at dinner

Jaipur

***Above is all at the Delhi Bus Depot***

Today we headed off pretty early in the morning for the bus depot in the NICE part of Delhi (post aloo/puri made by Acchelal)...we passed India Gate...Parliament...Prime Minister's residence on our way to catch our luxury bus. Today was definitely living the Indian hi-life...our bus was AC...cushioned seats...tinted windows...the works. A comfortable 5 hour ride to Jaipur---riding on the bus and train in India beats out flying almost anytime...just so much to see and keep you entertained. Arrived at the Jaipur depot and then were driven to IIHMR. Definitely a nice place...sorta set away from the chaos of the city and after days we all are in a area w/some level of sanity :):):) Read no rickshaws or cars or people or vegetable sellers etc etc etc. Settled into our rooms...enjoyed a pretty nice dinner in a sorta fancy setting---you will see w/the pictures...and then found this American style computer lab...first comfort zone on the computer since we arrived :):):)

Enough of the day's happenings...below I am pasting in something that I read earlier today and has really struck a chord in my mind...

BEING IN TWENTIES - SOMETHING

It is when you stop going along with the crowd and start realizing that there are many things about yourself that you didn't know and may not like. You start feeling insecure and wonder where you will be in a year or two, but then get scared because you barely know where you are now.

You start realizing that people are selfish and that, maybe, those friends that you thought you were so close to aren't exactly the greatest people you have ever met, and the people you have lost touch with are some of the most important ones. What you don't recognize is that they are realizing that too, and aren't really cold, catty, mean or insincere, but that they are as confused as you.

You look at your job... and it is not even close to what you thought you would be doing, or maybe you are looking for a job and realizing that you are going to have to start at the bottom and that scares you.

Your opinions have gotten stronger. You see what others are doing and find yourself judging more than usual because suddenly you realize that you have certain boundaries in your life and are constantly adding things to your list of what is acceptable and what isn't. One minute, you are insecure and then the next, secure.

You laugh and cry with the greatest force of your life. You feel alone and scared and confused. Suddenly, change is the enemy and you try and cling on to the past with dear life, but soon realize that the past is drifting further and further away, and there is nothing to do but stay where you are or move forward.

You get your heart broken and wonder how someone you loved could do such damage to you. Or you lie in bed and wonder why you can't meet anyone decent enough that you want to get to know better. Or maybe you love someone but love someone else too and cannot figure out why you're doing this because you know that you aren't a bad person. One night stands and random hook ups start to look cheap. Getting wasted and acting like an idiot starts to look pathetic. You go through the same emotions and questions over and over, and talk with your friends about the same topics because you cannot seem to make a decision. You worry about loans, money, the future and making a life for yourself... and while winning the race would be great, right now you'd just like to be a contender!

What you may not realize is that every one reading this relates to it. We are in our best of times and our worst of times, trying as hard as we can to figure this whole thing out. Send this to your twenty-something friends... maybe it will help someone feel like they aren't alone in their state of confusion...

We call it the "Quarter-life Crisis."

FATE DETERMINES WHO COMES INTO OUR LIVES.....HEART DETERMINES WHO STAYS

Extremes and then extremes...

Today was our last day at Vasant Kunj and we headed off early in the morning for our weekly meeting. Which quite frankly I have concluded at this point could easily be completed via teleconference. Was nothing that demanded an actual meeting. Then we went off for our site visit at SAHARA's Women's Rehab site where battered women as well as those who are drug addicts are provided w/services. We met up w/the coordinators and also spent quite some time talking w/the ladies. All of whom introduced themselves and told us a little about themselves. Everything from women shattered by domestic violence to street drug users...each w/their own story. One of the girls was 23 y/o and a drug user who had gotten pregnant from a drug dealer. She had arrived at the women's center unaware she was pregnant (she thought her stomach was growing from eating) until the women at the center told her she WAS pregnant---and that too five months pregnant. She wanted to get it aborted but that was not possible so she was sent home to her mother---in the slums near Jama Masjid. She delivered at home w/the help of a dai---untrained nurse midwife (no medical expertise/resources whatsoever). She has the MOST adorable son---who had experienced drug withdrawal because she had injected drugs throughout her pregnancy. Another one of the girls was married but had been the victim of domestic violence and had been left at her parent's place by her husband. From there through referrals she found herself at the center seeking help. She is hoping to possibly leave the center in due time and work as a beautician as well as make good use of her sewing skills---both of which she obtained at the center. Many more stories...each one unique...and each one equally touching. We then had lunch w/them (which was delicious---tasted like ghar ka khaana) and headed off to SAHARA's Men's Rehab. We spent some time there watching one of the sessions...and thereafter Farah and Paul joined into a game of ping pong w/the clients. Brave and talented souls both are.

Post site visits we headed off to the PVR at Saket (PVR is like the AMC of India). But pre-movie (which we never actually saw) we had dinner at Pizza Hut (must add Farah did her thing and had Subway lol). Then went to the theater only to find NONE of the timings were do-able. So instead we went to the Baristas nearby and hung out. It is just amazing to me the extremes that we live in or more so the people here live in. Throughout the day at the site visits it is like being in one world (with so much need....so much pain...) and then we head off to these places which are an altogether different world (where there is so much money...and style...and such an upscale lifestyle). Farah made a great point while we sat in Baristas...India really has changed. I see more now then ever bfr that this is anything but the India I grew up hearing about. I think the extremes have reached an altogether new level---u sit in the Baristas and sip away your 55 Rs. Latte or whatever while right outside you have kids walking around begging for money. Which may I add is a sad situation for more then one reason. Sure many of these kids DO need the money but it has almost become a business in itself. Some of these kids are exploited etc and some have just decided to make a life out of it. They decline any offer for other types of help (e.g. to be admitted to a school) and wld rather make a living begging for money. Clearly there is NO one person or group to blame. It would be in just to blame those who are begging but it would be equally wrong to simply point fingers at those sitting in the Baristas or Coffee Day. In fact that entire complex was something---there was PVR Theaters, Pizza Hut, Ruby Tuesday's, Benigan's, Baristas, Coffee Day, Nescafe as well as other stuff that I must be forgetting!!! Half of that does not even sound like we are in India does it??? Enough of my rambling. Left the area after a brief and very entertaining session watching an audition for SaReGaMaPa (a musical show on Zee like Indian Idol for the uninitiated)...and Farah was asked to participate but she let the golden opportunity pass :(:(:( I was SAD. They also came forward to ask to comment on one of the participants and I had my two seconds of fame which I totally blew by speaking like one who has never learned grammar as Farah so rightly pointed out later. They had actually approached Emma first but she just hid behind Farah ;););)

We just finished packing and will head off to Jaipur tomm morning...

A little of this....a little of that...

***If you don't have the time please at least read the last paragraph starting w/'It was an interesting'...***

Today was our last day at SM and boy was it a day. Post-chai we started off the day doing the second part of rounds w/Dr. Gupta. Urm who I had mentioned earlier was headed home for a few days but we got the REAL scoop on her now. Boy were we duped. Aunty Jenny told us that she in fact has contracted it from her husband (who is a truck driver) but she does not know that her husband gave it to her. Her daughter (the adorable Anjali) also has it and so she too will be starting ART (anti retro-viral therapy) soon. Currently her CD4 count is decent enough for not needing ART and so is the husband's but Urm does need it. She will be coming back w/her two older daughters for them to be also tested. Quite disturbing---so in reality Urm has been DUPED. Then followed one of the most amazing and touching things I have ever experienced in my life. They have a daily devotion session at Michael's Home around 9:30...today however they waited for us and started devotion and prayed for us as it was our last day...everyone-the staff and the clients gathered. We were asked to choose one of the hymns from the book and Farah suggested 'Amazing Grace'. I was choking up-no lies. Aunty Jenny then said a prayer for all four of us. It was just so kind and so real and one of the kindest things ever. Made me feel warm and choked up all at the same time. Post-lunch we spent some time talking to Misha (the med student volunteer) and also learned abt TB as well as Mother-To-Child-HIV-Transmission from Dr. Gupta. Emma got a bonus as she also got to learn what the word 'fetus' means...being the non-medical ppl that she is (sorry we all are). It is just amazing to me how something can be SO common in one country and you hardly hear about it in another. TB, malaria, etc are terms thrown around like we throw around heart attack or stroke over there. That is not to say coronary disease is not an issue here too. That is a booming business in itself. You can't pass a street where you won't see some center or shop advertising a cardiac check-up package...e.g. value package...bonus package...Gold package etc etc etc. We bid farewell to everyone and everyone also bid us a warm farewell and headed off to Lajhpat Nagar to check out the market/shops. It was good but we didn't buy anything---did enjoy some yummy Kwality ice cream though. Our final stop was at Coffee Day which was a great way to end our day and I finally had my slice of chocolate indulgence that I've been craving and missing out on for days now (yesterday Tonic only had ice cream for dessert). Came home to find our AC working!!! YEAH!!!! Keeping our fingers crossed it stays that way...feeling sticky around the clock was just not something we were getting used to. ASIDE: It was an interesting experience interacting w/Dr. Gupta the past few days. He is a very intelligent guy and taught us quite a lot. At the same time however he did not think we were very intelligent people and sort of assumed all four of us were completely ignorant of anything remotely related to medicine. We had told him about each of us but that somehow only helped him establish a mindset that we wouldn't know the most basic of things. I think in my case he assumed that I must be the 'dumb nurse' that docs etc tend to deal with (he didn't even bother to acknowledge it). Clearly ppl here do NOT hold nurses in high esteem. Frankly it is a sad state in this country. I had spoken to a nurse in the St. Stephen's Outreach center as well (the Outreach center in the slums we had visited last week). She told me abt how ppl here give a damn abt nurses here and most people think of them as being sorta 'medical slaves' (I use that term w/some reservations) who have no real knowledge and merely do what they are told. When one really thinks abt it this type of mentality is only harming the system. If doctors learned to collaborate w/nurses the healthcare delivery system would be improve considerably. This could only be done if nurses were to be trained in a manner where nurses would work w/doctors as colleagues and NOT simply having docs serve as their superiors. This also demands providing nurses w/some level of autonomy---if trained properly and w/the needed skills this autonomy could most certainly be granted. While nurses and doctors both receive the deserved respect in the US it is essentially the opposite here---when in fact in a developing nation like India the healthcare needs demand highly trained doctors AND nurses who can work side by side. While the doc is looked upon as God here (literally) the nurse is usually looked down upon or altogether sidelined. Watching the nurses work and do rounds w/the doctors it was apparent that nurses here are either not trained w/the same level of medical knowledge as in the US or they are simply not allowed to utilize this medical knowledge that they received as part of their schooling. I can only hope someday this sad state of affairs will come to an end...

In that picture is Om Prakash (a former addict who is now the gatekeeper at SM) and also in the background u can see Anjali (Urm's daughter)...

Tonic and HNS

Below: Tonic, Delhi

So today was Day III at SAHARA Michael's Home and the girls will cover today in their blogs...I am done writing abt SM for now and will completely digress. I think the girls might've thought I was kidding and I may not write abt this here (fearing mom/dad will have me fly back tonight) but I will :)

Yesterday night the SWOT Team got very innovative and amongst our deep (very deep) conversations brought to life HNS-Hindu Nuns Sect (irony? I think not). I am starting the HNS for those of us who are just not finding this marriage thing happening or working. The only pre-requisites are:

1.) Not getting married
2.) Subscribing to Men Style and/or GQ
3.) Marriage rule is nullified in circumstances where you come face to face w/any of those individuals in Men Style and/or GQ (e.g. Johnny Depp, Daniel Craig, etc.)
4.) Devoutly follow Sej-ism

Number four is a complex issue and will be self-explanatory on a web-site that is currently under creation w/supervision by Farah. Just think of HNS as a very convienient way of living the nun-hood life...the modern, flexible way...

---------------------------

If anybody is still reading after my absolute INSANITY (and truth) above...post SM we went for a brief shopping experience where we were good and bought nothing (read we simply found nothing worthwhile buying). Then headed to our big mission for the day---dinner at the Indian restaurant under Chopsticks (remember I had mentioned it's a fancy buffet place that Sudarshan had treated us at?). It was closed and we went into the one next door-Tonic :) Good food...great ambience...very relaxing. It was apparent that the place was for the very well off but nonetheless we had a great time. The second half was fantastic as w/a mere dimming of the lights and some upbeat music the place literally turned into a club type atmosphere. Eventually we headed back to reality world and came home to our not-still-AC'd apartment...the pictures above are all at Tonic...

SAHARA Michael's Home II

***Jackie I replied back to ur comments in the comments...***

Today was day two at Michael's home and we had a great time. But bfr I get into that let me add that our AC died yesterday night and we were sorta out of electricity too. It's not fun-stuff...AC's not back yet but Acchelal (the caretaker) says it'll be fixed tommorrow.

We started off our time at the site talking to Urm a mother of three who has been at the center for the past month. She is the wife of a truck-driver but has NOT contracted it from him. Her story starts off some four years back when she first started complaining of various aches and pains...help was sought from a local practitioner who kept treating everything w/injections (the kind that had been used over and over and over again). Eventually she was tested at one hospital where the test came out negative. However-a test done later with another doctor (apparently a real one) came out positive and she was referred to SAHARA Michael's. She currently stays at Michael's Home w/her four y/o ADORABLE daughter. She has two other older daughters (9 and 11 y/o) who are staying back home w/the grandparents and family. Her husband who is constantly on the road has not tested positive and serves as a support system for her. She admits her greatest regret after testing positive was automatically assuming her husband had fooled around and given it to her. She has family support but they've made it a point to make sure word does not get out of the house into the community about her having tested positive (fear of the severe stigma attached). When we asked her what could be done about these quack-docs (that are what they are really called) she said that while the docs cannot be stopped it is possible to attempt to stop people from visiting them...word can be spread by mouth to raise awareness.

We then spoke to several others who now work at the center but previously were clients receiving the services---absolutely amazing!!! Almost everyone from the medical director down are former IDU (injection drug users) who struggled for years with the addiction bfr seeking out help at SAHARA's and overcoming the addiction. When we say addicts we mean people who were spending anywhere between 100-5000 Rs. daily on drugs (drugs that are both legal and illegal---legal meaning drugs sold at pharmacies but bought under the table and illegal meaning things such as brown sugar aka heroin). We also had a chance to visit the mini-lab (remember they are trying to make things work as they are now based in a farmhouse???) where the lab tech showed us rapid testing for Hepatitis B/C as well as HIV and she also showed us a slide of a STD under the scope but we cldn't clearly understand what STD she was referring to. She will bring the written name and show us tommorrow.

Post-lunch we spoke to Aunty Jenny (such a sweet woman)...a former school teacher who involved herself in these activities after her two daughters were struggling w/an addiction problem. She works as a counsellor and while she hasn't been formally trained I can confidently say she can beat out any formally trained counsellor w/all her experience and skills. SAHARA helped her two daughters overcome their addiction and now they are also leading a perfectly normal life. We also had a brief session w/one of the nurses who told us about the universal precaution methods used in the center---which vary slightly (and are milder) because this is a 'home' or center as opposed to an actual hospital.

One thing we have learned over and over again at Michael's Home is that it is in particular a success because it run by those who were once addicts. These people understand to the T what these clients are struggling with, what their needs are, etc etc.

Post site visit we headed off to Delhi Haat an outside market where one can buy handicrafts, cloths, snacks, etc and spent some time shopping there. Had my first Limca (sorta like a 7-Up as Paul called it) since we arrived-lovin' it. Then headed home but just HAD to make a quick stop at Cafe Coffee Day (Indian Starbucks) where me Mango Colada was yummy (tempted Paul into buying one) and Farah had her prescribed dosage of a latte. Just got home and am realizing more and more (as my pants LITERALLY stick to this chair) how much we miss Bapu's AC that worked almost all the time (lol minus that lapse for a day or two that we faced).

SAHARA Michael's Home

Today was our first day at our new site heading out from our Vasant Kunj apartment (which is only for this week blah). It is again a part of SAHARA known as SAHARA Michael's Care Home and provides services in particular to IDU's (intravenous drug users) and those who have tested HIV positive. The MOST interesting part of this was to learn about how for the most part the program is run by former clients who have slowly turned into service providers. Both of the men whom we spoke to...Francis as well as Philip were former service seekers and are now at management type positions within the center...Philip told us he had been a IDU since he was 13 y/o but had given it up some 10-15 years back.

SAHARA Michael's in a nutshell:

1.) In-paitent facility consisting of 35 beds and will serve clients for as long as
needed...maybe 15 days maybe 3 months...medical tx...counselling...spiritual
support...etc

2.) Availibility of 24/7 Service...with doctors/nurses/health-care providers...

3.) Outpt Department which is open 5 days a week for four hours each day and serves
as an entry point for clients---whether they may need to be admitted...out pt
services or referral services (mental health, etc)

4.) Hands-On-Care Training (focusing on universal precautions, etc.) provided to
health-care providers who come from all over the nation for this certification

5.) Home-Based Care---this is provided from within the community so as to assure
there is not a high level of dependence on seeking out services at the
center/clinic for issues that can be solved on the home front-in turn promises
less use of resources

With the limited family/social support and the massive stigma associated w/these issues it becomes difficult for the clients (btw they do not like to use the word patient as it comes off as demoralizing in some sense). SAHARA is often the sole support system for these individuals and therefore it is very important for those running the program to provide a close-knit family feel to the center to provide a safe-haven for the vulnerable population to turn to...

This center just moved to a new location a month back and they are attempting to make it work. They are currently set up in a farmhouse (those who have been to India know it's like a day getaway place) and so it isn't the easiest thing. Also having been located in the previous location for 10 years it will take some time for the client population to re-direct and come to this new place which is 7-9 km away.

I had some thoughts today when Philip and Francis spoke about spirituality...will try to get them in later...btw there was a Delhi Bandha today (shutdown) because of the severe political tensions w/the Gujjar issue and their demands not being met...we rode home in an ambulance to assure our security...NEVER a boring day here...

Am back to write in about the spirituality bit I mentioned earlier. Today at orientation there was discussion of how the approach is of a spiritual type and not of a religious type. The focus is on helping these individuals understand the value of their life and the reality of the power above that is watching out for them. That to me is the true meaning of religion---a type where unity is promoted!!! The power of faith becomes all the more apparent watching these former clients so effectively manage this massive undertaking. This faith requires no massive temple/masjid/church...nor does it require any fancy scripture...nor does it demand anything else...and yet it seems to achieve so much more!!!

Vasant Kunj

***Look below I've added some pics...***


We just arrrived at our Vasant Kunj apartment for the week...it is nice...definitely nicer then the other place. But no escape from the lizards...YUCK!!! It's pretty late but I am uploading some pics as we finally got a chance w/a computer and fairly fast internet here. There is also a TV w/a whole lot of channels. Attached is the pic I took right now at the apartment at dinner. Do check out the pics below too.